Polysorbate 20 — Frequently Asked Questions

An emulsifier disperses oil in water as droplets large enough to scatter light, which is why a lotion is opaque. A solubiliser forms micelles small enough that they do not scatter visible light, so the oil is carried in what looks like a clear solution. Polysorbate 20 has an HLB of about 16.7, which places it firmly in the solubiliser range, so it is used to make clear fragranced water rather than to build a cream.

A common starting point is two to five times the weight of the oil being solubilised, but the correct ratio depends on the specific fragrance, since some materials are far harder to hold in clear solution than others. The usual method is to pre-mix the fragrance and the Polysorbate 20 thoroughly before adding that blend slowly to the water phase with agitation. Adding them separately generally produces haze.

Chain length is the deciding factor. Polysorbate 20 carries a short saturated lauric chain, which matches light and volatile materials such as fragrance and citrus oils. Polysorbate 80 carries a longer unsaturated oleic chain, giving its micelles a larger oil-loving core that holds heavier materials such as vegetable oils and vitamin E. If a solution stays hazy with Polysorbate 20, trying Polysorbate 80 is usually more effective than raising the dose.

Yes. It is a non-ionic surfactant, meaning it carries no charge of its own, so it does not react with cationic conditioning agents or anionic surfactants the way a charged emulsifier would. It also works across a wide pH range. That tolerance is one of the main reasons non-ionic solubilisers are preferred in formulations that combine ingredients of differing charge.