Polysorbate 20

About This Product

Polysorbate 20 is produced by ethoxylating sorbitan monolaurate with around 20 units of ethylene oxide. It carries CAS number 9005-64-5 and the INCI name Polysorbate 20, and is supplied as a clear to pale yellow viscous liquid, fully water-soluble. Its function is set by its HLB value of approximately 16.7. HLB, the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance, is a number describing how water-loving a surfactant is, and above about 15 a surfactant stops making opaque emulsions and starts forming micelles small enough not to scatter light. That is the difference between a cloudy body mist and a clear one. Polysorbate 20 is therefore used as a solubiliser rather than an emulsifier: it carries small quantities of fragrance, essential oil or oil-soluble active into an aqueous product while leaving it transparent. The short lauric chain in the molecule suits light, volatile oils particularly well, which is why it is preferred over Polysorbate 80 for fragrance work. Typical use is two to five times the weight of the oil being solubilised. It is non-ionic, so it works across a wide pH range and is compatible with charged ingredients. It is used in clear mists and toners, micellar waters, mouthwash, bath products, shampoos, and as a dispersant in food and pharmaceutical applications. Bio Green Chem supplies Polysorbate 20 to specification on hydroxyl and saponification value, acid value, water content, colour and heavy metals.