Polyglycerol Fatty Acid Esters (PGFEs) — Frequently Asked Questions

The conventional way to make an emulsifier more water-loving is ethoxylation, which attaches ethylene oxide units and creates a PEG chain. Natural and clean-beauty positioning increasingly excludes PEGs, partly over 1,4-dioxane residues from the ethoxylation process. Polyglycerol esters achieve comparable hydrophilic character by linking glycerol units instead, using only glycerol and fatty acids, so no ethylene oxide is involved at any stage.

On two independent axes. Lengthening the polyglycerol chain, from polyglyceryl-3 up to polyglyceryl-10, adds hydroxyl groups and makes the molecule more water-loving. Changing the fatty acid and the number of ester groups attached makes it more oil-loving. Combining those two variables gives access to almost any HLB value from strongly lipophilic to strongly hydrophilic from the same basic chemistry.

Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate is widely used for water-in-oil emulsions and cleansing balms, where a low HLB is needed. Polyglyceryl-10 laurate and similar high-polyglycerol grades are used as solubilisers and oil-in-water emulsifiers. The grade should be selected against the required HLB of the oil phase rather than by name, since the range covers the whole scale.

Yes. They are established food emulsifiers, used in bakery, confectionery and beverages, and polyglycerol polyricinoleate in particular is used in chocolate to reduce viscosity. Grade and specification differ between food and cosmetic applications, so the intended use should be stated at enquiry so the correct documentation is supplied.