Working pH is the main reason. True soap is the salt of a fatty acid and must be alkaline, around pH 9 to 10, to function at all, and that alkalinity swells and disrupts the skin barrier, which is why soap leaves skin feeling tight. Amino acid surfactants are stable and effective at mildly acidic pH, typically 5 to 6, close to the skin's own surface, and they also interact far less aggressively with skin proteins than sulfates do.