Coconut Oil — Frequently Asked Questions

Molecular size and affinity. Lauric acid, which makes up roughly half of coconut oil, is a relatively small, straight, saturated chain with a high affinity for hair protein, so it can pass between the cuticle scales and into the cortex rather than sitting on the surface. Larger and more branched oils remain on the outside, which is why coconut oil is used specifically for reducing protein loss.

It is more than 90 percent saturated, and saturated chains pack into a crystal lattice readily. Its melting point is around 24 to 26 degrees Celsius, so it is a clear liquid in a warm room and a white solid in a cool one. That is normal and reversible, not a sign of spoilage, though repeated cycling can make the texture grainy.

RBD coconut oil is refined, bleached and deodorised from dried copra, giving a neutral, odourless, colourless oil. Virgin coconut oil is extracted from fresh coconut without those steps and retains the coconut aroma and flavour. For cosmetic work RBD is normally specified unless the natural aroma is part of the product; virgin carries its scent through into the finished formulation.

It is generally rated as moderately to highly comedogenic and is avoided in facial products for acne-prone skin, though individual response varies and the rating system itself is imperfect. Fractionated coconut oil, which is caprylic/capric triglyceride, is much lighter and is the usual substitute where the feel of coconut oil is wanted without the occlusivity.