Beeswax — Frequently Asked Questions

They are the same wax at different levels of refining. Cera Flava is unbleached yellow beeswax, retaining the natural colour and honey aroma of the comb. Cera Alba is the bleached white grade, processed to remove colour and most of the odour. Cera Flava is chosen where the natural character is wanted; Cera Alba where colour or aroma would interfere with the formulation.

Around 5 to 20 percent of the formulation, depending on the firmness required and the oils used. The lower end gives a soft, spreadable balm; the upper end gives a firm stick that holds shape in warm conditions. Because beeswax melts at 61 to 65 degrees Celsius, the oil phase must be heated above that to dissolve it fully before pouring.

That is bloom, a natural surface crystallisation of the wax's longer-chain components, and it is cosmetic rather than a sign of spoilage. It is more common after temperature cycling. Gentle warming redissolves it. In a finished product, bloom can be reduced by controlling the cooling rate or by blending with a wax that inhibits crystal growth.

Not on its own. It is essentially lipophilic and will structure an oil phase and form an occlusive film, but it has little affinity for water. The traditional beeswax and borax cold cream works because borax reacts with free fatty acids in the wax to form a soap in situ, which does the emulsifying. Modern formulations generally use a dedicated emulsifier, or PEG-8 beeswax, instead.